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Automatic Watch
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- A watch
whose mainspring is wound by the movements or accelerations of the wearer's
arm. On the basis of the principle of terrestrial attraction, a rotor turns and
transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism. The
system was invented in Switzerland by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th
century.
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Crown
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- Knurled knob
located on the outside of a watch case and used for winding the mainspring. It
is also used for setting the hands to the right time and for correcting
thecalendar indications.
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Bridge
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- Complementary
part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. The other
parts are mounted inside the frame (part of the "ébauche").
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Dial
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- Indicating
"face" or plate of metal or other material, bearing various markings to show,
in ordinary watches and clocks, the hours, minutes and seconds. Dials vary
verymuch in shape, decoration, material, etc. The indications are given by
means of numerals, divisions or symbols of various types.
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Calibre
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- Originally
used to mean the size of a watch movement, this term now denotes a type of
movement (men's calibre, automatic calibre, etc). When a calibre number is
accompanied by the manufacturer's mark, it serves as an indication of origin.
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Fly-back Hand
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- In a
chronograph with analogue display, an additional centre second hand which can
remain superposed on the other one as it moves, can be stopped independently
and then made to "fly back" so as to catch up with the other hand, can be
stopped and reset to zero together with the other hand. In chronographs with
numerical display, a "function" having the same effect.
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Chronograph
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- Watch or
other apparatus with two independent time systems: one indicates the time of
day, and the other measures brief intervals of time. Counters registering
seconds, minutes and even hours can be started and stopped as desired. It is
therefore possible to measure the exact duration of a phenomenon. Not to be
confused with the timer, the stopwatch and the chronometer.
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Glass, Crystal
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- Thin plate
of glass or transparent synthetic material, for protecting the dials of
watches, clocks, etc.
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Chronometer
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- Watch which
has undergone a series of precision tests in an official institute. The
requirements are very severe: a few seconds per day in the most unfavourable
temperature conditions (for mechanical watches) and positions that are
ordinarily encountered.
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Jewel
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- Bearing,
endstone or pallet used for reducing friction. Generally made of synthetic
material, except for the precious or semi-precious stones (ruby, sapphire,
garnet) which are sometimes used in "de luxe" watches.
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Jumping Hours
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Tachometer
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- Instrument
for measuring speed. In watchmaking, a timer or chronograph with a graduated
dial on which speed can be read off in kilometres per hour or some other unit
(see timer).
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Jumping Seconds
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Timer
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- Instrument
used for registering intervals of time (durations, brief times), without any
indication of the time of day.
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Moonphases
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Tourbillon
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- Device
invented to eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions. It consists of
a mobile carriage or cage carrying all the parts of the escapement, with the
balance in the centre. The escape pinion turns about the fixed fourth wheel.
The case makes one revolution per minute, thus annulling errors of rate in the
vertical positions.
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Movement
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- Assembly
consisting of the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock: the
winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, the
regulating elements. "Anatomically", the movement consists of the "ébauche",
the regulating elements and the other components.
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Watch Case
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Rotor
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- Half-disc of
heavy metal, which is made to rotate inside the case of an automatic watch by
the energy produced by the movements of the wearer's arm. Its weight tends
always to bring it back to the vertical position. Demultiplied by a specially
designed device, its rotations continually wind the mainspring of the watch.
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Winding
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- Operation
consisting in tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can be done by hand
(by means of the crown) or automatically (by means of a rotor, which is caused
to swing by the movements of the wearer's arm).
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Skeleton
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- Skeleton
watch: watch in which the case and various parts of the movement are of
transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen.
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